Over the years I have acquired quite a cookbook collection. Perhaps that is an understatement.
Correction. A cookbook library.
These are not just merely for decoration, or to have for random references to pull out on game night. These beautifully bound pages chronicle different styles, techniques, moments of my journey through Pastryland. Each one offers a friendship and hope that help me through creative block moments. As each page unfolds my eyes grow wider. New inspiration unleashes itself and an idea is born.
I can admit that I went through what I would like to call my “snobby” phase. Only fine dining cookbooks would suffice my urges and of course all the Pierre Herme collection. Then there was the “informational” phase; the one stop scientific shopping, Harlod McGee’s On Food and Cooking and The Sweet Kitchen. Vintage was in and Maida Heatter was all the rage. Books over $250 was a brief addiction but due to the lack of funds a quick kick in Martha Stewart and then a right hook into everything Spanish. The green monster, Ramon Morato’s Chocolate, as I call it, still leaves me breathless and bursting with creative fruit flavor.
But overall, the book that I at times crawl into bed with and slowly turn the pages of after a hard service or a fight with a friend…
The Last Course by Claudia Flemming. She is my Judy Bloom.
I will never forget the day I came across her book. I was living in Boston and was cruising the cookbook section of Borders. Basically, the porn isle for chefs.
A simply cover with three miniature pictures on front. A delicate blueberry tart, perfectly caramelized pineapple, and a mouth watering waffle. Perfect. Delicate. Simple. The book fit perfectly in my hand and all the way to the register.
Claudia Flemming, the former pastry chef of Gramercy Tavern, is an inspiration to me. Sure doesn’t use fancy hydro-collides, or use high-tec equipment. She uses the basic knowledge of good pastries, great products and gracious execution as her guide. But more importantly, for me at least, is that this book reached out to me and made me realize pastries could be simple and sexy. After working in ultra-fine dining you think a completed plate has fifteen components, when really it could just have one and be just as mind blowing. From her chestnut honey Madelines to the salted caramel chocolate tart all to her goat cheesecake, this book consistently provides foolproof recipes that any cook, professional or home, would be proud to create.
So, I leave you with a recipe from Mrs. Flemming. Jot it down, save it for later. But I promise you will be pleasantly surprised at the pure brilliance of her work.
You can thank me later.
-Youngest
Lavender Lemon Pound Cake:
1cup butter
4T dried lavender
5 eggs
1.5 cup sugar
1.5 cup + 2T cake flour
¼ t salt
1T lemon zest- grated
1t vanilla extract
¼ cup lemon juice
Method:
Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter and flour a 9X5 loaf pan. Melt 1T of butter and steep the dried lavender with it for 10 minutes. Strain and cool.
With the whisk attachment- whisk the eggs and 1 cup sugar until thick and pale.
Sift the flour and salt. Fold the lemon zest and a third of the flour into the egg mixture till combined. Fold the rest of the flour in two batches. With one cup of the batter whisk with the melted butter and vanilla extract. Pour back and mix into the original batter. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake the cake until tester comes out clean. Meanwhile, combine ½ cup sugar, lemon juice, and ¼ cup water to a simmer. When the cake comes out of the oven brush the lemon juice mixture on top, when slightly cooled take the loaf out and brush again (top and bottom) with the lemon glaze.
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