Last One Standing Gets A Pony:

I have been considered to be a competitive person; I don’t necessarily agree.  But then upon reflection, I have been known to say “In it to win it.”

My three partners in crime had decided that we had gone too long without a night out.  So, The Puerto Rican, The Grecian, The White Girl, and myself set a date.

Where was this absurd quartet outing to take place? None other than one of the most respected and outstanding restaurants this side of the Mississippi.

Alinea.

24 courses.  Wine Pairings.  Pre-game cocktails. In heels.

The winner.  Gets a pony.

These ladies were going to be difficult to beat.  They were true competitors; well despite the Puerto Rican.  She only weighed in at 102.

I can’t remember the last time I actually sat down and had more than five courses. That and I hadn’t seen the inside of my gym in three weeks…ok, dammit six.  And then there was the dress and heels part. Fine, give me a pair of sweatpants, my couch; Game Time.  But no, not only did I have to dress well, I had to behave well.  We all had friends that worked there and made us swear we would be on out best behavior as they pleaded, “PLEASE, go to Schwa! Anywhere but here!”

To prepare for the evening I visited my local Banana Republic and favorite gay personal shopper.  We planned to look great, but also made a conscious effort to pick an outfit that could fit what my ladies and me call our “food babies.”  Next up, Neiman Marcus for NARS makeover.  Unfortunately for me, my regular girl was off so I made the dumb idea to try another.  One hour later, I looked like a raccoon or a Russian hooker (the results from the poll are not yet in, and no offense to Russian hookers but they do love their black liner!) and quickly hurried home to scrub my face off.

The night started with Krug and cheers to one of the most memorable evenings of 2009.  Well, we hoped to remember it.

Honestly.  After working in fine dining for years, I don’t care to have endless courses, snobby service, and high price tag experiences.  Alinea is none of these- perhaps not the price tag.  But, well worth it. 

Dave Beran, the Chef de Cuisine, is remarkably talented.  The food was fun, beautiful and MOST importantly, flavor forward and balanced.  Our wonderfully attentive Captain, Colleen, made sure that we received everything perfectly and timely.  Last but not least, Richard, our sommelier who beckons the spirit of Edward Scissorhands sans scissorhands, was informative and a perfect gentleman. (Despite calling me a light weight.  I suppose I shall forgive him.)

The highlights: (a.k.a. things that were badass)

Pork Belly with Thai Distillation

White Truffles with Scrambled eggs, and risotto, and mashed potatoes, and taglitelle.

Dried Spicy Peanut Butter

Matsuake with Toro

Hot potato Cold Potato

Bubble Gum in a tube (don’t mind the noise… and Grecian Princess screaming to Puerto Rican Princess “You have to suck harder” as the dining room went quiet.)

Chocolate with BACON NOUGAT.  (In caps because it was the most amazing thing I have EVER had….still waiting on the recipe from Sir Beran.)

My appreciation for the individuals that work so diligently at Alinea is endless and the experience that they provide is truly astonishing.  Complements to the Chef and a warm thank you to the service staff.

But allow me to get to what is most important.

Who won the pony?!

In brief, after a four-hour dinner, numerous drinks at other fine establishments and back to Alinea to have after shift drinks (or bottles) with their crew; at 5am my little Grecian took the prize.

We are so very proud of her.

-Youngest

Stick A Fork In It, I Am Done Series: “Over Cooked, Over Done"

[The topic of this article was initiated by the Youngest in order to instigate the Eldest to finish it off. And that, she did. Thanks, Yo.]

In life, some relationships come to an end. People part for lots of reasons. For some, the parting is mutual and a good thing; for others, it sucks but you move on.

And then, there are the “over’s”.

These are the over-stayers, the over-diners, the over-whiners.

They just don’t take “no” for an answer. They keep holding on for dear life for whatever is left – just a morsel of anything. A call here, an email there- anything to keep the casual whining and dining going. Meanwhile, they are completely oblivious to the fact the other half of the party has finished the main course, stashed the goodie bag, cashed out and sped off after hitting the valet.

An “over” wants to order the same damn menu each and every time- the same old conversations, the same gripes, same jokes, the same BS. And they expect what they ordered will be served… which is strange because the kitchen has been closed for quite some time.

It’s tough when you deal with an “over” because you find yourself singing for your supper anyway, with niceties and random social banter. You do it all so you don’t hurt that person’s feelings. But that is a cardinal mistake, like grabbing a bite to eat at The Outback Steak House. You always feel worse after than you did before.

The situation is overdone; so don’t let the “over” sucker you in for another course. You had your fill, so be done with it.

And if the “over” is still hungry, tell him to ask his wife to make him a sandwich.

- The Eldest

Are You There Claudia? It’s Me, Youngest.

Over the years I have acquired quite a cookbook collection.  Perhaps that is an understatement.

Correction.  A cookbook library. 

These are not just merely for decoration, or to have for random references to pull out on game night.  These beautifully bound pages chronicle different styles, techniques, moments of my journey through Pastryland.   Each one offers a friendship and hope that help me through creative block moments.  As each page unfolds my eyes grow wider.  New inspiration unleashes itself and an idea is born. 

I can admit that I went through what I would like to call my “snobby” phase.  Only fine dining cookbooks would suffice my urges and of course all the Pierre Herme collection.  Then there was the “informational” phase; the one stop scientific shopping, Harlod McGee’s On Food and Cooking and The Sweet Kitchen.  Vintage was in and Maida Heatter was all the rage.  Books over $250 was a brief addiction but due to the lack of funds a quick kick in Martha Stewart and then a right hook into everything Spanish.  The green monster, Ramon Morato’s Chocolate, as I call it, still leaves me breathless and bursting with creative fruit flavor.

But overall, the book that I at times crawl into bed with and slowly turn the pages of after a hard service or a fight with a friend…

The Last Course by Claudia Flemming.   She is my Judy Bloom. 

I will never forget the day I came across her book.  I was living in Boston and was cruising the cookbook section of Borders.  Basically, the porn isle for chefs.

A simply cover with three miniature pictures on front.  A delicate blueberry tart, perfectly caramelized pineapple, and a mouth watering waffle.   Perfect.  Delicate. Simple.  The book fit perfectly in my hand and all the way to the register.

Claudia Flemming, the former pastry chef of Gramercy Tavern, is an inspiration to me.  Sure doesn’t use fancy hydro-collides, or use high-tec equipment.  She uses the basic knowledge of good pastries, great products and gracious execution as her guide.  But more importantly, for me at least, is that this book reached out to me and made me realize pastries could be simple and sexy.  After working in ultra-fine dining you think a completed plate has fifteen components, when really it could just have one and be just as mind blowing.  From her chestnut honey Madelines to the salted caramel chocolate tart all to her goat cheesecake, this book consistently provides foolproof recipes that any cook, professional or home, would be proud to create.

So, I leave you with a recipe from Mrs. Flemming.  Jot it down, save it for later.  But I promise you will be pleasantly surprised at the pure brilliance of her work. 

You can thank me later.

-Youngest

Lavender Lemon Pound Cake:

1cup butter

4T dried lavender

5 eggs

1.5 cup sugar

1.5 cup + 2T cake flour

 ¼ t salt

1T lemon zest- grated

1t vanilla extract

¼ cup lemon juice

 

Method:

Preheat the oven to 350F.  Butter and flour a 9X5 loaf pan.  Melt 1T of butter and steep the dried lavender with it for 10 minutes.  Strain and cool.

With the whisk attachment- whisk the eggs and 1 cup sugar until thick and pale.

Sift the flour and salt.  Fold the lemon zest and a third of the flour into the egg mixture till combined.  Fold the rest of the flour in two batches.  With one cup of the batter whisk with the melted butter and vanilla extract.  Pour back and mix into the original batter.  Pour the batter into the prepared pan.  Bake the cake until tester comes out clean.  Meanwhile, combine ½ cup sugar, lemon juice, and ¼ cup water to a simmer.  When the cake comes out of the oven brush the lemon juice mixture on top, when slightly cooled take the loaf out and brush again (top and bottom) with the lemon glaze.